tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-38269490569967889202024-02-07T09:38:56.092-08:00Cobbler Mountain WoodshopOne man's journey as a maturing woodworkerNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.comBlogger80125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-57013026066677637222017-06-15T09:40:00.000-07:002017-06-15T09:44:38.018-07:00Pencil Post BedRecently, I completed this king-sized pencil post bed. The wood is tiger maple. The finish is Charles Neil's New England Maple, which is a mixture of 3 parts General Finishes Light Brown dye and 1 part General Finishes Orange. I applied the dye by hand. Before applying the dye, I trace coated the wood twice using General Finishes Medium Brown dye, first sanding with 120 grit and secondly with 180 grit. The top coat is three sprayed coats of General Finishes High Performance Satin.<br />
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I built the bed in <a href="http://cn-woodworking.com/" target="_blank">Charles Neil's woodshop</a>, using his special jigs to taper the posts and make the octagonal bevels on the sides of the posts. I finished the bed in my own shop, where I hand cut lamb's tongues at the transition points on the posts. I applied the finish in <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Fleisher</a>'s spray booth. It was a fun build and makes a great addition to our home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsH_MKjb-JSEr8mt6EMlpcFm8kz9iH3f3te-JyaLi05As8dUVP5sqCb9Ex8-uIw7ItJOe_T1K8v_XE3A9yUJNLWs0TDTchbuLCvKNWVuQ-81zEylA6ulzWmPtjEdbBe-nzSiIkjuuFMs/s1600/Bed-1933_4_5_6_7_8_93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1496" data-original-width="1600" height="596" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXsH_MKjb-JSEr8mt6EMlpcFm8kz9iH3f3te-JyaLi05As8dUVP5sqCb9Ex8-uIw7ItJOe_T1K8v_XE3A9yUJNLWs0TDTchbuLCvKNWVuQ-81zEylA6ulzWmPtjEdbBe-nzSiIkjuuFMs/s640/Bed-1933_4_5_6_7_8_93.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tiger maple pencil post bed</td></tr>
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I hope you build something good for yourself!<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-10696723807054546782017-03-15T14:57:00.000-07:002017-03-15T14:58:17.802-07:00Greene & Greene-Inspired Pantry ShelfRecently, I completed--with the assistance of my friend <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Fleisher</a>--a pantry shelf of my own design inspired by the Greene & Greene style. The shelf, which measures 24 X 36", incorporates a number of Greene & Greene features, including cloud lifts, finger joints, reveals, and ebony plus and inlays. The photo shows the finished shelf.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N4nrvgQJ6N9dlPIgoB2GYTZyHnF2ehalnUXmO9F25m1s80OOWGuLIiu3lCHNGF49y28RqBAFpZZaEZ2T1UWw6k6GBCssTBOSupQVw4MJf6Omhn0Kka9XLw2-mKi2kZOQY-ttxgqlwCo/s1600/Pantry+Shelf-1652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7N4nrvgQJ6N9dlPIgoB2GYTZyHnF2ehalnUXmO9F25m1s80OOWGuLIiu3lCHNGF49y28RqBAFpZZaEZ2T1UWw6k6GBCssTBOSupQVw4MJf6Omhn0Kka9XLw2-mKi2kZOQY-ttxgqlwCo/s640/Pantry+Shelf-1652.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Greene & Greene-inspired pantry shelf in use</td></tr>
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The build for this project is slated to be featured in the August 2017 issue of <i>Popular Woodworking Magazine</i>, so look for it there.<br />
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Norm<br />
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<br />Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-73490630431820299352016-09-17T02:19:00.001-07:002016-09-17T02:19:42.064-07:00Shenandoah AwlsPreviously I've written about the business I operate with <span id="goog_2102396948"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/">Jeff Fleisher<span id="goog_2102396949"></span></a>, called <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">Shenandoah Tool Works</a>, and the woodworker's mallets we introduced in 2013. We since have added a new product, which we call the Shenandoah Awl.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRu8xH8DcI1VSJicw-E7cdf9knV8QlmfHVdP2_yZrnzrqF6w6LTFptQBp7o430_ZCzOLDOEj3BRSzG-Oc5Wvn_cR5rO96zD315hxQ4FMEN5rRF5mSzZB3uFgVED-MZWdQufm7wqivLlLw/s1600/TMA101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRu8xH8DcI1VSJicw-E7cdf9knV8QlmfHVdP2_yZrnzrqF6w6LTFptQBp7o430_ZCzOLDOEj3BRSzG-Oc5Wvn_cR5rO96zD315hxQ4FMEN5rRF5mSzZB3uFgVED-MZWdQufm7wqivLlLw/s320/TMA101.jpg" width="100" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiger Maple Awl</td></tr>
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The Shenandoah Awl is a birdcage awl that incorporates a unique design for the handle, a large round bulb shape that allows the user to easily apply plenty of torque in use. In addition, the steel shafts, made of oil-hardened (O1) steel, are shaped in a twist that gives them a decorative touch. The shafts are hand-forged by a local blacksmith. As with the Shenandoah Mallets, the handles are hand-turned from a variety of domestic and exotic hardwoods, the most popular of which are those made with crotch walnut and tiger maple.<br />
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Birdcage awls differ from scratch awls, which are intended to mark lines in wood. Birdcage awls have a square shaft that, when twisted in the wood, is capable of drilling holes to start screws, install locks, or simply to mark the location to start a drill bit.<br />
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The awls have been selling very well and have received good reviews from other woodworkers, including <i>Popular Woodworking</i> magazine. They are available at the <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">Shenandoah Tool Works</a> website and are priced at $54.99 USD.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-91560617031301288392016-08-22T01:57:00.000-07:002016-08-22T01:57:09.567-07:00My Planes are Finished; Well, Almost!Today was the sixth and final day of the wooden bodied planemaking class with <a href="http://scottmeekwoodworks.com/" target="_blank">Scott Meek</a>. The class, held in Scott's basement workshop in Asheville, North Carolina, was a great learning device, not to mention a lot of fun!<br />
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Today we sharpened and honed one blade so we would know how to do it. I already have learned to sharpen freehand on diamond plates so for me, this served more to get one blade prepared for a trial run with the new planes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXjEh-Gi6Z9db2LGj2CrXXgHgvx1WlzW1XWDqcTm2JPawnxNqpilQo8FYxWo78sYwwlEbkU2pQksY8P0_fBpzkXGSrGsquDjzpcRhYNN0wKhCKm97Dj210zl4vjsA6WugrJtRdqFRvOA/s1600/20160820-_NRA0813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJXjEh-Gi6Z9db2LGj2CrXXgHgvx1WlzW1XWDqcTm2JPawnxNqpilQo8FYxWo78sYwwlEbkU2pQksY8P0_fBpzkXGSrGsquDjzpcRhYNN0wKhCKm97Dj210zl4vjsA6WugrJtRdqFRvOA/s640/20160820-_NRA0813.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is the blade I honed, using a solution of Hone Rite on DMT's Diasharp diamond plates</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Then we opened up the mouths of our plane bodies just so the blade would protrude through the base with enough room to spare for the desired shaving to pass through.<br />
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We spent additional time refining the shape of our plane bodies to fit our aesthetic objectives and also to fit out individual hands, given the differing ways we hold our planes. They are our unique creations. We didn't finish this part of the work and will further refine the fit and then the finish at home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JnmklNPuZFcgpGmKBuHsxB-C7UL2k4ocXXFAt690CotutwXXXF0El3I1GxGmDv8vVGQF-8RCEHE5keuF9AeRUPSvrrywJipXTj6Hq6uScvIvwHTVQ6l6pCk6MZdwx8sUXwkKmU5b_xU/s1600/20160820-_NRA0819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JnmklNPuZFcgpGmKBuHsxB-C7UL2k4ocXXFAt690CotutwXXXF0El3I1GxGmDv8vVGQF-8RCEHE5keuF9AeRUPSvrrywJipXTj6Hq6uScvIvwHTVQ6l6pCk6MZdwx8sUXwkKmU5b_xU/s400/20160820-_NRA0819.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 22 inch jointer plane, showing it rough shape; I'll refine it further after I put it to use</td></tr>
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Finally, we put our planes to the acid test--taking shavings with each of them on the famous 2X6 Scott has taken to woodworking shows for years and that is now closer to a 2X2. What a great thrill it is so see a wonderful full width shaving curl off the board and feel the mirror-like finish it leaves behind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf14-awicHoRaE-_jCXZuhMPRf0XqqDtQSQOB4acCivhTVqfXIZoL0fR_E3oa5_tMNOPkIYYvZGlVRalnWggrL519x06bo4Oq5T18nC8rOYi2KGLRD4YThS9ZPbVSKG0UP8CJzKQ_Ueoo/s1600/20160820-_NRA0822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf14-awicHoRaE-_jCXZuhMPRf0XqqDtQSQOB4acCivhTVqfXIZoL0fR_E3oa5_tMNOPkIYYvZGlVRalnWggrL519x06bo4Oq5T18nC8rOYi2KGLRD4YThS9ZPbVSKG0UP8CJzKQ_Ueoo/s400/20160820-_NRA0822.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Osage orange smoother, white oak jointer and teak jack planes</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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In addition to what I learned about planemaking, I got to use a Benchcrafted leg vise and plan to get and install one of these in my own woodshop.Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-6930816917875807082016-08-18T20:12:00.000-07:002016-08-18T20:18:22.571-07:00My Planes are Taking Shape!On the fourth day of the <a href="http://scottmeekwoodworks.com/" target="_blank">Scott Meek</a> class on making wooden planes, we shaped the wedges that will hold our blades in place and then began to cut the now rectangular plane bodies to their final shapes.<br />
For my Osage orange smoothing plane, which has a 50 degree bed angle, I decided to create my own body style and so I strayed from the traditional design. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcK_LPwN8fuO7_AZghjgltHse92afNounXvEIZFf8JsIg5JUOfr55_Uupri6gAsYBxZIb0C5okTjTubZ3NbiFoSLW2ahUEudaqea0PVY-LhzwmDB4FN9pG-NweRFPY7CGUIZHVLMUjug/s1600/20160817-_NRA0784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAcK_LPwN8fuO7_AZghjgltHse92afNounXvEIZFf8JsIg5JUOfr55_Uupri6gAsYBxZIb0C5okTjTubZ3NbiFoSLW2ahUEudaqea0PVY-LhzwmDB4FN9pG-NweRFPY7CGUIZHVLMUjug/s320/20160817-_NRA0784.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Osage orange smoother body before shaping</td></tr>
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My idea was to incorporate handle-like curves in the toe and rear of the plane to make it more easily fit my hand in use. So I left the front and rear sections higher so I could shape them to fit my hand.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipihq-IoI4wGFXXoRyjQuydu2goEXEgApVtMaTla7KLdYSEdea5eb1zGfvKSCe6TjiW51RtyQ2jQECAM0hLdOzefOu5KqlR0hclV-tfkJzyOnWNm8hzZ6NMvDkZfjgsxfxt62ka1OqZBI/s1600/20160818-_NRA0798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipihq-IoI4wGFXXoRyjQuydu2goEXEgApVtMaTla7KLdYSEdea5eb1zGfvKSCe6TjiW51RtyQ2jQECAM0hLdOzefOu5KqlR0hclV-tfkJzyOnWNm8hzZ6NMvDkZfjgsxfxt62ka1OqZBI/s400/20160818-_NRA0798.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the shaping is visible on the front of the plane; I did less shaping on the rear</td></tr>
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I will probably not make any more changes to this plane, except to polish the rasped areas. I can do additional changes to fit my hand when I'm back in my own woodshop and after I have spent some time using the plane.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKM0a55OuSqqqWybQJCDBjyu5uZ5_LlFeWnDtCyHArFzyZXTNjDvJ0SGEll3lX9agjFgV10fx7CJDK9xU_42NErMGldyJA9vN6i0LYFX6Dm-uQhZp8ABXsCLh9o2qS9ddtVpvb9PQIBnY/s1600/20160818-_NRA0792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKM0a55OuSqqqWybQJCDBjyu5uZ5_LlFeWnDtCyHArFzyZXTNjDvJ0SGEll3lX9agjFgV10fx7CJDK9xU_42NErMGldyJA9vN6i0LYFX6Dm-uQhZp8ABXsCLh9o2qS9ddtVpvb9PQIBnY/s400/20160818-_NRA0792.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My teak jack plane in the process of being shaped </td></tr>
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The teak 12 inch jack plane is still being shaped. I'm following Scott's pattern for this plane, which will have Scott's "wave" pattern on the rear section. That not only makes it easy to hold and use, but beautiful as well.<br />
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I've not yet started on shaping the 22 inch white oak jointer. That will come tomorrow.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-0XcebYIl4vvn2TOiLP_ppEF4vo1VoTMNWqIkAzFMGAg3WR7K1p2Mib3H5eN5UwqZBoLNf9p4r_PdQLJe2nD5BUDFHd6Ces-mCBhUMt9_zQ84OIAHxOHY20JLEnMQpwmBZO9tQuNwsc/s1600/20160818-_NRA0800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-0XcebYIl4vvn2TOiLP_ppEF4vo1VoTMNWqIkAzFMGAg3WR7K1p2Mib3H5eN5UwqZBoLNf9p4r_PdQLJe2nD5BUDFHd6Ces-mCBhUMt9_zQ84OIAHxOHY20JLEnMQpwmBZO9tQuNwsc/s400/20160818-_NRA0800.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My teak jointer and Osage orange smoother as they near completion</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAflFJJtKC4GgyvGMmswaHeCHu1h-2qnoEWYSDKLgJ75KXotbMByZRzomqEpvaX-mYU8A9mCgC1qwzTN5o43xiyh5EwC9ZMTc5Epw_eJKrXk3_dP1mz4okIp4GoGoJnZZbUhitS7R4ju4/s1600/20160818-_NRA0789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAflFJJtKC4GgyvGMmswaHeCHu1h-2qnoEWYSDKLgJ75KXotbMByZRzomqEpvaX-mYU8A9mCgC1qwzTN5o43xiyh5EwC9ZMTc5Epw_eJKrXk3_dP1mz4okIp4GoGoJnZZbUhitS7R4ju4/s400/20160818-_NRA0789.jpg" width="286" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the 12 planes being built in the class this week</td></tr>
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Tomorrow we'll finish shaping the bodies and then work the mouths so the blades protrude just the right amount.<br />
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Need I say that I'm having a lot of fun--and learning a lot too!--in this class? When I update my book on handplanes, <a href="https://www.createspace.com/5774938" target="_blank"><i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i></a>, I plan to include a chapter on wooden handplanes, which are quickly becoming favorites in my handplane collection. <br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-69743918670766639222016-08-17T20:34:00.000-07:002016-08-17T20:34:41.875-07:00Starting to Look Like PlanesIn yesterday's class, we made the cross pins, against which the wedges will secure the blade in place, and cut the cheeks off the sides of the plane blocks; until now they had been whole blocks. Then we cut the center block into two with the correct slopes to bed the plane blade at the desired angle. My smoother is being crafted from Osage orange, a very hard and beautiful yellow wood. Domestic varieties are also known as hedge apple and by other names.<br />
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I then marked the location for the crosspin, drilled holes through the
body to accept it, and glued the cheeks back onto the center blocks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfVAMLjrljgpP7O4eJUHDWXNfa0tF1SKKc5sHEUC9Siucy-UUyDfuRDeNKt0T5tw7dSnohgWlzzZ_VHREna4x3ofWp0xhWgGhlM14I_ZDIAOLFsAxkeZtidgxWGe9EyDKNZHqTYC0dvE/s1600/20160817-_NRA0783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfVAMLjrljgpP7O4eJUHDWXNfa0tF1SKKc5sHEUC9Siucy-UUyDfuRDeNKt0T5tw7dSnohgWlzzZ_VHREna4x3ofWp0xhWgGhlM14I_ZDIAOLFsAxkeZtidgxWGe9EyDKNZHqTYC0dvE/s400/20160817-_NRA0783.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Osage orange smoother in clamps after the cheeks were re-glued to the center blocks</td></tr>
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The clamps came off after a few hours. I centered the crosspin between the checks, trimmed off the crosspins where they stood proud, and laid out the profile for the plane on one side. Then it was off to the bandsaw to create the rough outline shown below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD83vQ2DrJfVEWz3n7xT4M3O9bVvjwx8uqY5aHQhlFR3mSA9Z_e4xZ9FS2pZ5Cl0-gwdRcg-UI_PaBcJI8F91avuRwhJv0X0gYaZmNFons-1u8s4a7n6fEkI1Bc248xMgwtcREYKx_JXc/s1600/20160817-_NRA0784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD83vQ2DrJfVEWz3n7xT4M3O9bVvjwx8uqY5aHQhlFR3mSA9Z_e4xZ9FS2pZ5Cl0-gwdRcg-UI_PaBcJI8F91avuRwhJv0X0gYaZmNFons-1u8s4a7n6fEkI1Bc248xMgwtcREYKx_JXc/s400/20160817-_NRA0784.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the clamps came off, the boxy plane body was sawn to rough shape</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Next steps are to refine the body shape, hone the blade and fit the blade and the wedge to the plane body.<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-79733334378017858802016-08-16T19:27:00.000-07:002016-08-16T19:27:23.242-07:00Day 2--Scott Meek Plane ClassWe made great progress in constructing our planes today. Those blanks, like the Osage orange shown, that were glued with epoxy, came out of the clamps this morning. We jointed the bottom and one reference edge, then planed the blanks to rough width.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdKCWFXaMDM_S7TO7dE84WkZg4yP5fpEHFOzx93xcmnr9Qw59bbilX1StFQwiuPTHTg19MivivV_-A0R8VNJB_vK0laguG4SJel-xjlRXkRB5aNR5-7dT5OpaKBCX0CXzzhYwQnDNIgo/s1600/20160816-_NRA0757-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJdKCWFXaMDM_S7TO7dE84WkZg4yP5fpEHFOzx93xcmnr9Qw59bbilX1StFQwiuPTHTg19MivivV_-A0R8VNJB_vK0laguG4SJel-xjlRXkRB5aNR5-7dT5OpaKBCX0CXzzhYwQnDNIgo/s400/20160816-_NRA0757-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Osage orange plane blank with applied sole in Ipe glued on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXoCjXbmqvLum2-oJHC23YhJHfc6_rZCPXudkYoFKhy0aqsKBexqk5LmLEdZCiXxhyjNCe9olLQdcl5nuTVhceeP6Pi0PqtoEa4CfQPQcrm4Z5BDbso4WF0JJfaSSw2jyayNbhaqU1JQ/s1600/20160816-_NRA0760-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXoCjXbmqvLum2-oJHC23YhJHfc6_rZCPXudkYoFKhy0aqsKBexqk5LmLEdZCiXxhyjNCe9olLQdcl5nuTVhceeP6Pi0PqtoEa4CfQPQcrm4Z5BDbso4WF0JJfaSSw2jyayNbhaqU1JQ/s400/20160816-_NRA0760-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Osage orange blank viewed from the end on; doesn't look like much does it?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then we cut the cheeks from the edges, leaving behind a center block to be further cut to accommodate a blade. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7TQyp4BPZL3Gmt5qTN3nUOYts7CnN2Ur-QN9AwEfgF_1yAvj_eHECg8k-TcLIvlkR5218Cs9Vazg2Pg0aQNqpCaIlXbQ3-e_KEoIxxRpJpALJg9aB0JZgh0fIQ85w-qgBbG8f7jl-lI/s1600/20160816-_NRA0778-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq7TQyp4BPZL3Gmt5qTN3nUOYts7CnN2Ur-QN9AwEfgF_1yAvj_eHECg8k-TcLIvlkR5218Cs9Vazg2Pg0aQNqpCaIlXbQ3-e_KEoIxxRpJpALJg9aB0JZgh0fIQ85w-qgBbG8f7jl-lI/s400/20160816-_NRA0778-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The center sections of two planes marked and partially bandsawn, awaiting further work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We marked up the center blocks for a plane blade bed angle of 45 degrees, except for my Osage orange smoother, which will have a 50 degree bed angle. We also marked the reverse slope, the shape of which is less critical, needing mainly enough room to get the fingers into the opening to remove stubborn shavings. These cuts were made freehand (following a line) on the bandsaw. The bedding angle cut was made on the table saw.<br />
<br />
The forward slope was sanded on a belt sander, the bedding slope on a strip of sandpaper attached to a slab of marble. We filed slight 90 degree bevels on the bottom of the bedding slope.<br />
<br />
We measured and made crosspins (not shown) and rounded their tops.<br />
<br />
Tomorrow we will drill the locations for the crosspins, install dowels in the front and back corners and glue the cheeks back onto the center blocks. After allowing time for the glue to set up, we will begin the process of shaping the blanks into something more closely resembling the planes we will take home with us.<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-49392046658848555062016-08-16T04:43:00.000-07:002016-08-16T04:45:07.350-07:00Making Wooden PlanesI'm in Asheville, North Carolina, this week, learning to make wooden planes from Scott Meek. Yesterday was our first day, and it was a busy one,<br />
<br />
Our first job was to choose the woods we wanted and to assemble the blanks. I'll be making three planes, a smoother from Osage orange with an
applied sole of Ipe and a wedge and retaining rod of the same wood; a 12
inch jack plane from a nice block of teak and a 22 inch jointer of
quartersawn white oak that will have an insert just in front of the
blade to help with wear at this critical spot. The jack and jointer
will have wedges and retaining rods from bubinga.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJsM0dRmS-U1cVJac7oT8luNWsN0NpotIysBdY7PR8b0qwWil_JouGFmKAKF6yKBUVZQhBVxTYu2T1dPmz74OAWGGA8c16DqcNNXGtVZfVyuIKqkRrrPTtC2ceLm4cuKG2iZk7V4R4xs/s1600/_NRA0750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJsM0dRmS-U1cVJac7oT8luNWsN0NpotIysBdY7PR8b0qwWil_JouGFmKAKF6yKBUVZQhBVxTYu2T1dPmz74OAWGGA8c16DqcNNXGtVZfVyuIKqkRrrPTtC2ceLm4cuKG2iZk7V4R4xs/s1600/_NRA0750.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembling the wood blanks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One thing I learned is you don't have to have a 4X4 inch blank to make a plane body. You can glue up two 2X4 inch boards to get the size needed for a jack or jointer. Here is my jointer in clamps. We used Titebond 3 glue for the oak, but an epoxy glue for the woods like teak, bubinga and Osage orange that have more natural oils and would resist normal glue.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDcMdegPfFZ_4sTuIrWGNkHuS9IJaOq10SLmF3lPjjJQRNcEQD5Qn3OltcjwlvPiTa_LxeG3MY3FetSxr7ZzRd0psCA-zsQ0DBp5fiDhwXLrYLmulMihYgqGZbzuTd5eCwZh_l5NVfDwg/s1600/_NRA0752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDcMdegPfFZ_4sTuIrWGNkHuS9IJaOq10SLmF3lPjjJQRNcEQD5Qn3OltcjwlvPiTa_LxeG3MY3FetSxr7ZzRd0psCA-zsQ0DBp5fiDhwXLrYLmulMihYgqGZbzuTd5eCwZh_l5NVfDwg/s400/_NRA0752.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gluing up two white oak boards; squeeze-out is good!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCgZDTC-5JW-_Ep1ldBiSpZP6G032I61UPW1LCD2karZE_speUyZBmJ5nDi2uSRcTX39abPgf3M8YkzbvZ1WI5KRnVn8r_v9B_8bpezYJQIjNvPHSIQRRkKe-T1iMxdsB0KrJfWHGlCCQ/s1600/_NRA0754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCgZDTC-5JW-_Ep1ldBiSpZP6G032I61UPW1LCD2karZE_speUyZBmJ5nDi2uSRcTX39abPgf3M8YkzbvZ1WI5KRnVn8r_v9B_8bpezYJQIjNvPHSIQRRkKe-T1iMxdsB0KrJfWHGlCCQ/s640/_NRA0754.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The white oak boards clamped up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0p0YRISdS_e1sJ7yJkXiPDXX8ajx_j52ypNCMZO7sNhhc7OuI1hkMfi_I2b5fmrZP2SSmSLewRTgz6izewk1WLVRVTMH7-D1bEStUbNlQuwh_b3-SHiWiqx3v_ti8hgm5PLKH32rDLnA/s1600/_NRA0755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0p0YRISdS_e1sJ7yJkXiPDXX8ajx_j52ypNCMZO7sNhhc7OuI1hkMfi_I2b5fmrZP2SSmSLewRTgz6izewk1WLVRVTMH7-D1bEStUbNlQuwh_b3-SHiWiqx3v_ti8hgm5PLKH32rDLnA/s640/_NRA0755.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teak blank for jack plane</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
After selecting our wood, we jointed a smooth edge for the bottom and also one side. When glue-ups were called for we did those, rough cut our wedges to shape (we'll rasp and sand them later) and cut off the cheese so we can get to the interior.<br />
<br />
More to come!<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-55592478981459215522016-07-27T01:43:00.000-07:002016-07-27T01:43:51.942-07:00Handplanes Book Now Available in EuropeMy recently-released book on handplanes--<i>Choosing and Using Handplanes: All You Need to Know to Start Planing By Hand</i>--is now available from Amazon in Europe. It will be priced there in Euros or British pounds.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGd-aPuEglBGNrS-ZX_jzKCE4RuN-Zv73gBwKrw7nx0Kmy2giLP_XatTcUF3botYan_DQzITSkCh8PxdtIbXC9b7xZVG9Em9NMMp7lVoDM5zQxuzvfEyZy3opiNce6xu3s-ST1FxwPcd8/s1600/IMG_0512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGd-aPuEglBGNrS-ZX_jzKCE4RuN-Zv73gBwKrw7nx0Kmy2giLP_XatTcUF3botYan_DQzITSkCh8PxdtIbXC9b7xZVG9Em9NMMp7lVoDM5zQxuzvfEyZy3opiNce6xu3s-ST1FxwPcd8/s400/IMG_0512.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front and back cover</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
If you are looking for information about handplanes and how to get started using them, this book is written for you. I hope you will find it useful.<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-21295863014610068832016-07-27T01:30:00.001-07:002016-07-27T01:32:13.754-07:00Preparing to Make Wooden PlanesOver the last few years, I've acquired a few wooden handplanes. Several of them are older planes that I've not yet restored to working condition and they are basically sitting on the shelf for display. But I also purchased a pair of planes--a smoothing plane and a 16" jack plane--from <a href="http://scottmeekwoodworks.com/" target="_blank">Scott Meek</a> and I'm finding them really lovely to use.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfx7RXgSeU96pOT1ZdA-MmrMZqIBzWw1aHUL_KGfxCIBlg9tLC24O1WX3HiN71Vdz_bpkmTZeC180LP2FdXcuco55-dufAnlc8_HDdbS5CxLJ5B_CMxHSTxQ6FTFgRzAD44iSlnxlCLU/s1600/Meek+Planes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfx7RXgSeU96pOT1ZdA-MmrMZqIBzWw1aHUL_KGfxCIBlg9tLC24O1WX3HiN71Vdz_bpkmTZeC180LP2FdXcuco55-dufAnlc8_HDdbS5CxLJ5B_CMxHSTxQ6FTFgRzAD44iSlnxlCLU/s400/Meek+Planes.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scott Meek jointer (rear) and smoothing planes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Scott offers plane-building classes in his Asheville, NC, workshop and in a few weeks I am scheduled for a week-long class to build three planes:<br />
<ul>
<li>A smoothing plane</li>
<li>A jack plane</li>
<li>A jointer plane</li>
</ul>
To get ready for the class, I've been reading and watching DVDs. There are some good resources available. In case you are interested in learning about making wooden planes, here's what I've found so far:<br />
<ul>
<li> David Finck's <i>Making & Mastering Wood Planes</i> -- an excellent resource on making a Krenov-style smoothing plane; he also has a DVD set on making and using wooden planes</li>
<li>John Whelan's <i>Making Traditional Wooden Planes</i> -- a brief description of how you can make not only a smoothing plane but also many other specialized types of planes</li>
<li>David Perch and Robert Lee's <i>Wooden Planes and How to Make Them</i> -- similar to Whelan's book in that it covers many types of planes, but not the same ones as Whelan</li>
<li>Scott Meek has a DVD set that shows his method for making Krenov-style planes</li>
</ul>
The books are mostly available from <a href="http://amazon.com/">Amazon.com</a><span id="goog_2036144398"></span><a href="https://draft.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_2036144399"></span> or <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/search.aspx?find=finck" target="_blank">Highland Woodworking</a>. Perch and Lee is sold by<a href="http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=45260&cat=1,46096,46107" target="_blank"> Lee Valley</a>. The Meek DVDs are available from <a href="http://www.shopwoodworking.com/make-a-wooden-smoothing-plane" target="_blank">Popular Woodworking</a>.Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-86381230985175171512016-05-03T00:58:00.000-07:002016-05-03T00:58:54.193-07:00Handplanes Book Now Sold at Highland WoodworkingI'm pleased to report that my recently-released book, <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes: All You Need to Know to Get Started Planing by Hand</i>, is now being sold by <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/" target="_blank">Highland Woodworking</a>. They are a fine family-owned and operated company that sells a wide array of tools and other resources for woodworkers at their Atlanta store and via the web.<br />
<br />If you are interested in purchasing the book from Highland Woodworking, <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/choosing-and-using-handplanes.aspx" target="_blank">here's the link</a>.<br />
<br />
If you do purchase the book, I hope you find it helpful and enjoyable.<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-714385169486064492016-04-10T17:55:00.000-07:002016-04-10T17:55:51.721-07:00New Book on Handplanes ReleasedMy new book, <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i>, has just been released. Intended for the beginning and newer handplane user, its 90 pages include nearly 100 color illustrations. In this book, you will learn:<br />
<ul>
<li>The types of handplanes, names and functions</li>
<li>The first planes you should get</li>
<li>How to set up and adjust your planes</li>
<li>How to sharpen your plane blades</li>
<li>The kinds of sharpening stones</li>
<li>The different bevels you’ll want on your blades</li>
<li>How to hold your work for planing</li>
<li>The body positions that work best</li>
<li>How to determine the direction to plane boards</li>
<li>How to plane cupped, bowed, and twisted boards</li>
<li>How to plane end grain</li>
<li>How to buy and restore old planes</li>
<li>How to store and care for your planes</li>
<li>Sources of new and used handplanes</li>
<li>How to solve handplane problems</li>
</ul>
<i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i> is now available from <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Choosing-Using-Handplanes-Started-Planing/dp/0692681620/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459900579&sr=8-1&keywords=choosing+and+using+handplanes" target="_blank">Amazon </a>and <a href="https://www.createspace.com/5774938" target="_blank">CreateSpace</a>.<br />
<br />
If you are hankering to learn how to use handplanes, I think you'll find this a useful guide. <br />
<br />
Norm Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-59439646515586698342015-11-14T08:15:00.000-08:002015-11-14T08:15:55.275-08:00Writing While I'm Laid UpI'm wearing a soft cast right now to heal inflamed tendons in my right ankle. I'm supposed to stay off my feet as much as possible. That means I'm not getting in much in the way of shop time. Instead, I'm using the time for my other interests, writing and photography.<br />
<br />
I'm finishing up my latest book, <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i>, a guide intended for the newer user of handplanes. It will be published by Amazon as a paperback and also in a Kindle edition. I've described some of the process I've been going through on my <a href="http://scribblerscraft.blogspot.com/2015/11/publishing-on-amazon.html" target="_blank">writing blog</a>. <br />
<br />
And, I'm working my way through literally thousands of photographs in my files. Some of these I'm selling as <a href="http://www.positives.biz/" target="_blank">art prints</a>. Others I'm posing on my <a href="http://photoplusmore.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">photography blog</a> and on Facebook.<br />
<br />
So I'm occupied doing things I love to do. But when the cast comes off my foot, look out--it'll be back to the woodshop to finish up some projects that are waiting to be completed and start some new ones.<br />
<br />
NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-74116982508875832242015-11-10T00:56:00.002-08:002015-11-10T00:58:03.239-08:00My Book on HandplanesFor the last several months, I've been writing and photographing a book on using handplanes in woodworking. Titled <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i>, it describes the various types of handplanes, how to set them up and sharpen them, ways to hold work for planing and planing technique itself. It also addresses caring for handplanes, buying and restoring old handplanes and how to diagnose and fix various problems encountered in planing. The book should be completed in November in a paperback edition that will be sold on Amazon.com as well as on <a href="http://www.cobblermtnpress.com/" target="_blank">my web site</a> and in a Kindle edition to follow soon after that.<br />
<br />
A photo of the book's cover is shown here. If you are new to handplaning, I think you will find this book a helpful resource for getting started.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJm5j0Oz6WrKmMHPdH8gAmIJa24Ir772NbTCxOQeXNwr_-GQdADrm9kkmo0fzXNTJyv5-B9jRhqBWpVCx6RPm7PCEDiIMNjvVhlLGjWIgZQ4YN3jlhrNm053fSo5fzM2Tqft8VNKShU0/s1600/Handplanes+Book+Cover+-10.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGJm5j0Oz6WrKmMHPdH8gAmIJa24Ir772NbTCxOQeXNwr_-GQdADrm9kkmo0fzXNTJyv5-B9jRhqBWpVCx6RPm7PCEDiIMNjvVhlLGjWIgZQ4YN3jlhrNm053fSo5fzM2Tqft8VNKShU0/s640/Handplanes+Book+Cover+-10.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-24049915839104311512015-07-26T04:30:00.001-07:002015-07-26T04:33:06.408-07:00Publishing the Handplanes BookI continue to progress toward completion of my book, <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i>. It has 74 pages now and will probably reach 80 by the time it is finished. I still have a few photos to make and some appliances to construct. I hope to have this all completed by mid-August.<br />
<br />
That means it's time to start thinking about how I'll get the book published. I could go for a traditional publisher, but I'm inclined to think that the self-publishing route would be better. It think that offers the possibility of a lower price and wider distribution.<br />
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I do know that I'll be publishing it in full color, both the cover and inside. That's important particularly for the photographs, which are important for conveying the information I want to share.<br />
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At the moment, I'm taking a hard look at publishing through CreateSpace, which will make the book available for purchase via Amazon. I'll probably also produce a version for Kindle so it can be read on tablets. That's what I did for my mystery novel, <i>The Hero of Gucci Gulch</i>, and it worked well.<br />
<br />
I'll keep you posted on my progress and let you know when it is available.<br />
<br />
For now, my offer stands to send a free copy (via email) to anyone who wants to review it. Just write me at <a href="mailto:cobblermtnpress@gmail.com">cobblermtnpress@gmail.com</a> and I'll send the latest version by return email. If you send me helpful comments, I'll also reference you in the acknowledgements!<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-73871089746695157412015-07-22T10:02:00.000-07:002015-07-26T04:18:36.339-07:00An Update on the Handplanes BookSince my last post, I've made considerable progress toward completing my book, <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes</i>. The text is completely written, all of the figures are complete and most of some 80+ photos are inserted in their proper places. I still need to complete the appendices on shooting board construction and build and document a few other appliances.<br />
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I have the book out for review with a few people who are knowledgeable about handplanes. But, I would love to have additional readers. If you would like to be one of them, send me your email address to <a href="mailto:cobblermtnpress@gmail.com">cobblermtnpress@gmail.com</a> and I'll send you a pdf version of the book in its present draft form. Bear in mind, however, that it is about 3 mb in size.<br />
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I hope to have the book completely finished in a few weeks. I am starting to look for a possible publisher.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-60829885574715716032015-06-10T04:08:00.001-07:002015-06-10T04:20:38.990-07:00Choosing and Using HandplanesFor a number of years now I've taught classes on handplanes at two northern Virginia Woodcraft stores. My classes--Handplane Basics and Restoring Old Handplanes--are both fun to teach and educational, not only for my students but also for me. I've learned a lot about handplanes since I started. My beginning was a class at the Marc Adams School with Chris Schwarz and Tom Lie-Nielsen. Following that, I studied a number of books on handplanes and became a user in my own shop. But as much as anything, I've learned a lot from the questions posed by my students and my sometimes fumbling attempts to answer those I'd not anticipated.<br />
<br />
As a result of this experience I've come to believe I have a good feel for what beginning handplane users want and need to know. And while there are many good resources available, none of them seem quite right to meet the needs of my students. So, I've decided to write a book of my own.<br />
<br />
For now, the working title is <i>Choosing and Using Handplanes.</i> The book will explain the types of planes and their uses in the woodshop, techniques for planing, setting and adjusting planes, sharpening and honing blades, buying and restoring old handplanes, and jigs and fixtures to use with handplanes, including holding devices and shooting boards. It will also have a list of resources. It will make extensive use of photos, drawings and explanatory sidebars.<br />
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My plan is to publish it as an eBook through Amazon's Kindle. I'm hoping to have it finished sometime this summer. Already I have a first draft written, figures drafted and photos planned. Most of the sidebars are completed. What remains is to fill in the gaps and edit the text. I will also need to build the jigs and fixtures I want to illustrate. There's plenty of work to do yet, but I'm very excited about the project and find myself making progress on it every day. Look here for information about my progress.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-29979875375601272952014-10-22T15:13:00.000-07:002014-10-22T15:14:28.411-07:00A Sharpening Station, At Last!Many of my tools will benefit from regular sharpening. This includes handplane blades, bench chisels, carving chisels and woodturning tools, all of which I use often. It's well known among woodworkers that sharp tools are necessary to achieve the best work, while dull tools are inefficient at best and dangerous at worst. My problem was that I had no regular place to sharpen my tools. Instead, every time I wanted to sharpen my plane blades or chisels, I had to get out my stones and set them up on my workbench, then move them out of the way when I was finished with them. My woodturning tools are sharpened on a heavy slow-speed grinder that was inconvenient to lift from under my workbench every time I wanted to do some turning. I use a Koch sharpening system and Shapton stones for my carving chisels and, once again, it was stored in an inconvenient location.<br />
<br />
The eventual outcome of all this inconvenient, of course, is that the job of honing gets put off until no small amount of resharpening will suffice to restore the tools to peak condition. And it means that tools get used when they are dull, poor practice indeed, but one I'll admit to practicing.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIIAQ2dMp_pW64OBVROp3iOIl1_q5fnwtdftEu5Jk0wpc-hj5Usa-Nhsya_yhjAos_8eMGWE3l2f8mBvO7TtZUhqby0iZRoT1VcfCHmilD13_vaoU4DSE0euQgucir0Aak6OIU43oCDg/s1600/IMG_0490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWIIAQ2dMp_pW64OBVROp3iOIl1_q5fnwtdftEu5Jk0wpc-hj5Usa-Nhsya_yhjAos_8eMGWE3l2f8mBvO7TtZUhqby0iZRoT1VcfCHmilD13_vaoU4DSE0euQgucir0Aak6OIU43oCDg/s1600/IMG_0490.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gluing up the drawer</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The solution is a dedicated sharpening station, something I've yearned for over the years and even planned but never built. Fortunately, my <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">good friend</a> and <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">business partner</a> Jeff Fleisher came up with some surplus property that provided a solution. First was a slightly damaged cabinet with a wide drawer opening and double doors leading to a moveable shelf inside. Then, a local restaurant was renovating and he snagged some thick Formica table tops for each of us.<br />
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With these two pieces in hand, my job became simple. I attached rotating wheels, pin nailed the table top to the case and built a drawer to fit the opening just under the new tabletop. Then I added drawer pulls and finished it all with a coat of shellac.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gGx8fWAtOqIu-v8sAsN01u4vh2Xl0CwHxOCpK5N-CTEG6nZgLtXd-3ADBjF1at0-z6RxxMbsxbAmSFaY6qCaiakyJUsuFOGASKzaXs2e-7wVuONGmijOp1ilTOJpF8k3u2BwWIiWAqY/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gGx8fWAtOqIu-v8sAsN01u4vh2Xl0CwHxOCpK5N-CTEG6nZgLtXd-3ADBjF1at0-z6RxxMbsxbAmSFaY6qCaiakyJUsuFOGASKzaXs2e-7wVuONGmijOp1ilTOJpF8k3u2BwWIiWAqY/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My sharpening tools</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Even before the drawer was completed, however, I put the station in operation. The tabletop measures 48 X 30 inches and is large enough for all my sharpening equipment--a Tormek T-7 water-cooled grinder, a Koch sharpening system for my carving chisels, a low-speed grinder and a tray with my Shapton stones at the ready. My strop is hanging on one side. Tormek accessories and other small tools are in the large drawer. Water jugs (I have no water in the shop) and other large items are accessible through the double doors. Being on wheels, the whole sharpening station can be easily rolled near the workbench when wanted there and then rolled back out of the way when the floor space is needed for assembly and the like.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBV5GxEK1IBYtxaS-8wiq3TcXVrL2NvIN7sTtTmZmiXPlRTmr4IHANXVdHM78vAcfij3x7gDY-bPK-wjYV09OHlI5wvYBvRJgizs8EuiyDTNik5byoTsnoEtu2C3WwjfXHJr2OOJCCm0/s1600/IMG_0496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZBV5GxEK1IBYtxaS-8wiq3TcXVrL2NvIN7sTtTmZmiXPlRTmr4IHANXVdHM78vAcfij3x7gDY-bPK-wjYV09OHlI5wvYBvRJgizs8EuiyDTNik5byoTsnoEtu2C3WwjfXHJr2OOJCCm0/s1600/IMG_0496.JPG" height="149" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished sharpening station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I feel certain that this improvement to my shop will greatly enhance the speed and quality of my woodworking. If you don't have a sharpening station, consider building one similar to this. If you can get hold of a surplus cabinet or tabletop, so much the better!</div>
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-81955736778604681032014-10-13T10:37:00.000-07:002014-10-13T10:44:45.987-07:00Adding a Laguna BandsawFor a long time now, I've wanted to build boxes. Beautiful boxes. Boxes that feature beautiful wood. And for some time now, I've been building up a stock of highly figured woods that could make boxes that are attractive and, I hope, salable. I've got several nice, thick pieces of crotch walnut, some with gorgeous feathering, that would look lovely gracing the top of a box. I've got some figured ash as well. And small quantities of tiger and birds-eye maple. Plus a goodly amount of less figured woods that would make attractive box sides to offset the figured tops, woods like quartersawn white oak, maple, cherry, hickory and mesquite, among others.<br />
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The thing about boxes is they are generally built from thinner than usual pieces of wood; 3/8" and 1/2" are common thicknesses. While it's possible to plane wood to these thicknesses, it wastes a lot of valuable and perhaps irreplaceable wood. So resawing--slicing wood vertically through its width--is the preferred solution. Resawing is best done on a bandsaw. Though a tablesaw can be used for narrower boards, for boards over 5-6" in width, a bandsaw is required. In all cases, a bandsaw is both safer and takes a smaller amount of wood for a kerf.<br />
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I have a 14" bandsaw, a <a href="http://grizzly.com/" target="_blank">Grizzly </a>GO555, and it's perfectly adequate for many operations. But I've never had good results when resawing with it. Drift is a big problem, plus I'm limited to 1/2" blades like Highland Woodworking's <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx" target="_blank">Woodslicer</a>. While this is a good blade, I'm looking for something even better.<br />
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Enter the <a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/848258/Laguna-14-Bandsaw-3-HP-Leeson-Motor-LT14-SUV.aspx" target="_blank">Laguna 14" LT14 SUV</a>. It started with a sale that <a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/" target="_blank">Woodcraft </a>had on this saw. So I did some research. Actually, a lot of research. This SUV model (SUV stands for "Souped Up Version") has several attractive features, including some that are new to this model. It is driven by a 3 hp. motor. It has a large table (slightly larger than 15" X 19") that is easily adjusted and that tilts in both directions. It has two 4" dust ports. It has a resaw height of just under 14". The 125" blade is available in a 1" carbide tipped version called the <a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/848264/Laguna-Resaw-King-1-x-125-Carbide-Tipped-Bandsaw-Blade.aspx" target="_blank">Resaw King</a>. Amazingly enough, this 2-3 tpi variable pitch blade has no set, which helps it achieve a smooth cut. The saw uses ceramic guide blocks that are easily adjusted above and below the table. The fence has two positions, high and low, and can be quickly adjusted for drift. Most reviews are high on this saw, which is said to give a superior cut when using the Resaw King blade.<br />
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The nearest competitor is the <a href="http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/products/bandsaws/bandsaw-n4400.html" target="_blank">Hammer N4400</a>, a 17" German saw from Felder, which will accommodate a 3/4" blade, quite adequate for resawing. It has a 3.5 hp. motor. The nicest thing about this saw is that the tires are flat, rather than crowned, so drift is never a problem. I'd have easily have gone for this saw--I've seen it in action--but it costs almost $700 more than the Laguna's sale price. As far as I can determine, each saw delivers excellent results when resawing. Price being an important consideration, I decided on the Laguna. It's on order now.<br />
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I'll be keeping my Grizzly bandsaw. I've got plenty of jobs that call for smaller blades. And, I'll slice logs into lumber on the Grizzly, leaving the Laguna for resawing and protecting the expensive carbide blade for high quality cuts.<br />
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Naturally, I'm eager for it to arrive. Getting it off the truck (the crate weights 420 lbs) will be the first issue. Then I'll need to go through the whole setup and testing process. After I've had time to test it for myself, I'll write a review.<br />
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Have you used the Laguna bandsaw? If so, share your thoughts with other readers by leaving a comment. <br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-87278551397714798182014-10-07T23:49:00.001-07:002014-10-07T23:49:12.452-07:00Using Pinterest for Woodworking ResearchI recently signed up for Pinterest. I've got to admit it straight out; I'm not a big social media user. Sure, I have a Facebook account and I read it sometimes but seldom post. And I'm on LinkedIn as a passive presence. I don't Tweet. So frankly, I wasn't sure why I'd want to be on Pinterest. All that said, I decided to give it a go.<br />
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My first idea was to post links to my business, <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">Shenandoah Tool Works</a>, and I created links to photos of the woodworking mallets and birdcage awls my partner <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Fleisher</a> and I produce. But then, upon looking around, I began to see photos of things I'd like to build for myself. So I created boards in Pinterest for several projects--a cabinet to store hand tools, saw tills, a rolling lumber cart, table designs and decorative boxes. After creating the boards, I searched each of these topics, scrolled through what I found and pinned the photos I liked best to my boards.<br />
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Already I've used the photos to design a rolling lumber rack that combines several features I saw in the Pinterest photos--racks for boards, storage for plywood, bins for offcuts, a panel saw and clamp storage. I can already see that it will reduce the clutter in my shop and add functionality as well. <br />
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If you haven't tried Pinterest yet, you may find it useful for designing projects. The good thing is, it is not only easy to use but it's free! If you like the project boards I've set up, you can always follow me. My site is my name--Norm Reid. If you decide to use Pinterest, let me know how it works out for you.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-17478155495351143482014-10-06T13:10:00.000-07:002014-10-06T13:10:23.693-07:00A New Name, A New DesignIf you're a regular reader of this blog, you'll notice that I've renamed it and applied a new design. Since I've come to call my basement shop the Cobbler Mountain Woodshop, it seemed right that this blog should bear the same name. And, in view of the fact that I'm no longer a novice woodworker, a changing subtitle and design were in order as well.<br />
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Why Cobbler Mountain Woodshop? Simply, because my home is situated at the foot of Little Cobbler Mountain in Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains, with Big Cobbler Mountain lying just behind it. It's a lovely location, the mountain visible out the kitchen window on all but the foggiest of days.<br />
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The address for this blog is still the same as it was, <a href="http://normssawdustpile.blogspot.com/">normssawdustpile.blogspot.com</a><span id="goog_831199061"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_831199062"></span>. Only the title has changed, though a search on Cobbler Mountain Woodshop will find it as well.<br />
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The photo beneath the title and the design are new as well. I chose the photo--of my no. 4 Lie-Nielsen smoothing plane working a natural edge walnut coffee table--to reflect my growing use of hand tools. It also represents the fact that I've been teaching hand plane use and restoration at northern Virginia Woodcraft stores for the last several years.<br />
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As I see it, these changes represent more than a design upgrade. Instead, they reflect my evolution from a complete novice--which I was when this blog began--to a maturing woodworker with a number of increasingly complex projects under my belt.<br />
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I look forward to describing my woodworking adventures here and hope you'll join me for future installments.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-44680641814684097512014-10-05T07:40:00.001-07:002014-10-06T12:55:52.782-07:00Making Space for Hand ToolsLike many contemporary woodworkers, I started out with power tools. I assembled the usual array--workbench, tablesaw and bandsaw, jointer, planer, router table and sanding equipment, among others. I set up shop in a basement cleared of accumulated clutter and installed my power tools within reach of a good dust collector. Convinced that power tools would meet all my future needs and desires, I went so far as to declare I'd never need to use handplanes. I mean, just how wrong can a fellow be?<br />
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It wasn't long before I began acquiring handplanes and learning how to set them up and use them. Then it was chisels. And handsaws. And so, I converted from a complete Normite to a hybrid woodworker with a growing desire to build things using hand tools.<br />
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But while my woodshop afforded me space for my power tools, there was no good place for hand tool work, no spot where I could use a sawbench to break down lumber, no place for a sharpening station, no open area for assembly, no way to keep my burgeoning lumber stash from frustrating my attempts to move around the shop. I began to have visions of building a new woodshop outside to meet my growing need for space. My wife even went so far as to suggest just that.<br />
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It took my friend <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff </a>to see what I could not--the potential for reorganizing the space available right in my basement to yield more usable work area. And so, with his vision and assistance, we transformed the cellar in a few short hours and opened up at least half again as much space as I was already using.<br />
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Now all my power tools are in one area and my hand tool operations in another. Now I can walk past my lumber rack without fear of tripping. I can saw a board with plenty of clearance. I can wheel my assembly table into an open space for four-sided access when needed. I have room for a sharpening station near my workbench.<br />
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My wonderful wife was ready and willing for me to build a new woodshop. Fortunately, with her support, I've been able to get nearly the same result at little expense. I think I now need to build something to repay her. But that's what it's all about, isn't it? I think it's time to head down the stairs to my cellar woodshop and start something special.<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-13953593337652154872014-06-10T11:48:00.000-07:002014-06-10T11:50:23.884-07:00Update on 2014Well, so far this year, things haven't turned out as I planned in my last posting. Early this year I was diagnosed with cancer in a couple of places and in February I had an operation to remove it. The operations was, by all accounts, successful, but it did take me out of the shop for the better part of four months. As a result, I haven't gotten very much done on the goals I set out for the year. Needless to say, when next January rolls around, much of what I planned will remain undone.<br />
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Still, I have done a few things.<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Fleisher</a> and I introduced our new <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">birdcage awls</a> and began selling those via the web. Sales have been very good. We continue to sell our Shenandoah Mallets as well.</li>
<li>Jeff and I are signed up to have a vendor booth at this year's <a href="http://www.woodworkinginamerica.com/ehome/woodworkinginamerica.com/WIA2014/" target="_blank">Woodworking in America</a>, which will be held in Winston-Salem, NC, September 12-14. We will be busy this summer producing enough stock to meet the expected demand for our awls and mallets.</li>
<li>I built a bird's mouth fixture to use with my turning saw. I purchased that from <a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-BOWSAW12" target="_blank">Tools for Working Wood</a> at last year's Woodworking in America. I can't say I've learned to use it effectively yet; that remains an objective for this year.</li>
<li>I built a pair of shop bents to go with my sawbench. For these I used salvaged Douglas fir from stairsteps that were replaced in our house. </li>
<li>I resumed teaching at Woodcraft the other day with my Handplane Basics class. That is a milestone for me on my road to recovery and I will now be able to teach the other classes I'm planning to conduct.</li>
<li>I installed my new General router table. I got the one with the cast iron table. The router is also new, the 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable router, which should give me all the power I'll need.</li>
</ul>
I'll still work on the other projects I proposed for this year, though my emphasis will be on preparing to teach several new classes. For those, I need to first build the projects we will be building in class so I am fully prepared to teach them effectively. I do want to finish the bedside tables and the natural edge walnut coffee table, at a minumum. And, I'd like to build a Greene and Greene style clock based on plans from a November 2010 <i>Wood Magazine</i> article. Other projects may simply have to wait until next year!<br />
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NormNormhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-15054665574122313462014-01-04T23:48:00.001-08:002014-01-04T23:54:55.449-08:00My Goals for 2014<br />
<div style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt; margin: 0in;">
Well, it's that time
of year when, Janus-like, we look back at what we've accomplished in the
preceding year and ahead to what we hope to achieve in the coming one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Here are my lists.</div>
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<u>2013</u></div>
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This was a very busy
year for me, woodworking-wise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While I
accomplished a lot, I also started a number of things that remain unfinished.</div>
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My friend <a href="http://jeffswooddesigns.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Fleishe</a>r and I started a small business, <a href="http://shenandoahtoolworks.com/" target="_blank">Shenandoah Tool Works</a>, and began
production of premium woodworking mallets featuring highly-figured hardwood
handles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mallets come with steel
heads in 1 lb. and 1 1/2 lb. weights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Business started off well and our mallets have been well-received.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We attended the Woodworking in America show
in Cincinnati in October and did a good business there, getting valuable
exposure in the process.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I continued working
on a pair of white oak bedside tables.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
hesitated over several construction problems that I eventually solved and the
cases are now glued-up and awaiting drawers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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I upgraded my Nova
16-24 lathe to the Nova 3000 DVR model, which seems more powerful and is
certainly easier to use with its adjustable speeds.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I sold off my
Craftsman radial arm saw, now that I'm using handsaws to dimension my lumber.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I joined Shannon
Rogers' <a href="http://www.handtoolschool.net/" target="_blank">Hand Tool School</a> and began learning from Shannon many of the mysteries
and skills associated with hand tool woodworking.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I started work on a
joinery bench, following plans developed by Shannon Rogers in the <a href="http://www.handtoolschool.net/" target="_blank">Hand Tool School</a>.</div>
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<br /></div>
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With a colleague at
the Leesburg, VA, Woodcraft store, I designed a Hand Tool Woodshop class
series<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that he and I will be teaching on
a monthly basis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The idea is to teach
hand tool skills while letting students build new and useful appliances and
tools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Examples are bench hooks,
shooting boards, and saw benches, among others.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I was able to locate
a natural edge walnut slab that I planed smooth, mostly by hand, for use as a
coffee table top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also purchased
another slab of highly colored maple and was able to get a slab of beautiful
red box elder that I also plan to turn into a coffee table.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I undertook a lot of
additional, smaller projects that are too numerous to recite or even to recall.</div>
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<u>2014</u></div>
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<br /></div>
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I hope to focus my
attention this year on a select number of high priority objectives:</div>
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<br /></div>
<ul style="direction: ltr; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .375in; margin-top: 0in; unicode-bidi: embed;" type="disc">
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">Complete and finish the
bedside tables.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">Build a base for the walnut
coffee table.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">Build several Jefferson lap
desks<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>like the one on which the
Declaration of Independence was written in 1776.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have a wonderful mahogany board
waiting for that purpose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I'll
follow the plans from Charles Neil's <a href="http://www.cn-woodworking.com/" target="_blank">Mastering Woodworking</a> on-line
sessions for that.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">Recommence work on a
Winchester Chippendale secretary that I started several years ago in a
class with Jeff Headley and Steve Hamilton at <a href="http://www.wwotsv.com/" target="_blank">Woodworking Workshops of the Shenandoah Valley</a>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The casework is completed but not
glued-up, the drawers remain to be built and all the pigeon holes need to
be created.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I'm sure I won't be
able to complete the project this year, but I want to make significant
progress on it.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I want to learn how to cut
dovetails by hand with precision and ease.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I want to complete the
joinery bench I started in 2013.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I want to build a sharpening
station.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I've ordered a General
International router table with a cast iron top and hope to have that
installed in late January or February.</span></li>
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I'd like to turn a number of
items using the cherry, hickory, apple, box elder and other blocks I have stored
away.</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="direction: ltr; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .375in; margin-top: 0in; unicode-bidi: embed;" type="disc">
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">I want to continue teaching
hand tool techniques at the local Woodcraft stores, including the
introduction to hand planes, restoring old hand planes, saw bench,
shooting board and other classes.</span></li>
</ul>
<ul style="direction: ltr; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-left: .375in; margin-top: 0in; unicode-bidi: embed;" type="disc">
<li style="margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 0; vertical-align: middle;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt;">Jeff Fleisher and I will
continue to produce our premium woodworking mallets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And, we expect to begin offering a
hand-forged birdcage awl sometime early this year as well.</span></li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
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I'm sure other
things will come up during the year, principally projects from the <a href="http://handtoolschool.net/" target="_blank">Hand Tool School</a> that I'll want to tackle, such as the Limbert Table from Semester Two.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Did I say a select
number of high priority objectives?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Well, I guess I've put a lot on my plate for this year.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It remains to be seen how much of this I will
actually be able to accomplish. Check back next January!</div>
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<br /></div>
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Norm</div>
Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3826949056996788920.post-8167308646592671232013-12-29T02:49:00.000-08:002013-12-29T02:49:50.972-08:00Writing for Wood News Online
<br />
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For over a year and a half now,
I've been writing articles and, mostly, book reviews for Highland Woodworking's
<span style="font-style: italic;">Wood News Online.</span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This has been a lot of fun for me, since it
combines my twin loves of woodworking and writing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it has come at a price--I have not had
the time to be a faithful contributor to this blog as a result.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I'll try to make up for that in the future.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 11.0pt; margin: 0in;">
In the meantime, it
might be of interest to know some of the postings I've made to <span style="font-style: italic;">Wood News Online</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My first article<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>appeared in May 2012 and was called "<a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-1205may/handplane.html">Hand
Planes: Unlocking the Mystery</a>"; it was a review of techniques for
using hand planes in woodworking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
article draws on my experience in teaching handplane techniques at my local
Woodcraft store.</div>
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<br /></div>
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This was followed by
a series of book reviews.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can find
an index to the issues of <span style="font-style: italic;">Wood News Online</span>
at <a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-news-woodworking-magazine.aspx">http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-news-woodworking-magazine.aspx</a>,
which has links to all my book and DVD reviews.</div>
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<br /></div>
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In May 2013 I also
published "<a href="http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-1305may/peakhandplane.html">Seven
Steps to Peak Handplane Performance</a>," which discusses setting and
adjusting a handplane to get the best results from it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This article also draws on my experience
teaching restoring old handplanes at my local Woodcraft store.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Since the first article, I've
published a review a month, sometimes about DVDs, but mostly about books.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A couple of reviews have dealt with
woodturning but mostly they have been about woodworking techniques, with
emphasis on hand tools.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next month's
review, which should be released the first week in January, will be about Marc
Spagnuolo's new book <span style="font-style: italic;">Hybrid Woodworking.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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I've really enjoyed
doing this.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It's a good way to keep my
woodworking reading regular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I learn new
techniques and skills through my reading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And it gives me a chance to express myself in writing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What could be better?</div>
Normhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14930820699220767643noreply@blogger.com0